I often get asked about starting sewing or teaching someone sewing or helping someone and thus I present to you 5 pieces of advise for beginners. Now my advise does not always add up with other peoples but fits more my sewing personality which is essentially fast and dirty. In any case let me know if you agree or disagree with the below.
1. A Basic Machine could last you a lifetime
For a very long time sewing machines actually only did one stitch, a straight stitch. In the beginning it only did one length of that one stitch. Nearly a decade ago now I was replacing my machine, (the original was a Janome that cost me $120AUD) and looking to upgrade to a computerized machine. Truth be told there wasn't anything mechanically wrong with my Janome but the machine tray piece had a fight with a heater and the heater won, meaning that I only had the small bit that you wrap sleeves around.
I looked at many many machines with all sorts of bells and whistles when I had an epiphany. I use Straight stitch, maybe the occasional zig zag and the one step button hole. AND THAT IS IT!!! Sure I could spend the money and get a machine with eleventy billion stitch options, but I would still only use straight, zig zag and button hole - so why pay for stuff I won't use.
I ended up with a Brother NS10 which was at the time the most basic of the computerised machines. I still sew on this machine with the occasional service to keep it in good working order.
I have since inherited a fully working 1948 Singer and a more advanced computerised Janome. I worked on the Janome to create the swan maiden but to be honest I pulled out my Brother to sew the 1940's dress you will be seeing soon. This is likely due to me just being more familiar with the Brother now. Yes it does take a bit to get familiar with your machine no matter what machine you get.
2. Sewing is not actually that hard.
I know what a well hidden secret, however it is true. Since the advent of sewing machines sewing requires far less skill to get started than you would think. Most people seem to be holding back due to the intimidation of getting started. Honest if I can do it anyone can. Line up the seam push the the pedal and pray to the Rhapso (yeah apparently there was a minor goddess of sewing in Greek mythology.)
3. If you aren't interested you won't be interested
So much of the beginner advise out there is "make a pillow" or something equally as exciting. Yes that was sarcasm. Who wants a pillow or cushion? That is not going to inspire you to continue or get better. I say pick something you want to make. If historical costume is the reason you want to start sewing then make an historical thing.
4. Basic advise on some pattern choices (Historical and Wearable)
To start use sized patterns, that is a pattern that comes in your size (use measurements as "standardised sizing" is anything but standard).
For Victorian, Truly Victorian patterns are relatively simple as a base and the complexity comes from the additions you choose to use. They also have basic Edwardian bases. (No I am not sponsored by anyone). Do not start on Ageless patterns, they are not shy in advising you that these are for advanced sewers (so wait till you are at least comfortable with a sized pattern before attempting this)
You can get basic historical patterns from the big 4 now and I could recommend working with the Angela Clayton patterns from McCalls, I personally haven't yet but for most of them you can search out her vlog on you tube where she makes the item you are making and you can't get better advise than that.
Regency are a very simple pattern by default and again there are big 4 patterns, or sense and sensibility, folklore, Laughing moon. Personally I would steer clear of Reconstructing history their patterns are rather complicated.
There are plenty of books out there that allow you to draft up a pattern on scale models. Personally I wouldn't go with these as a first up but if you are artistic in a drawing sense or exceptionally mathematical you do you right.
For wearable stuff the big 4 (which by the way are Simplicty and then the three all owned by the same parent company - McCalls, Butterick, Vogue) have wide catalogues including vintage styled patterns. Pro Tip, if you wait for it sewing shops will have a sale every month or so where you can get 4 for the price of one.
Point is most patterns will come with full instructions, start with step one and work through to the end.
5. No shame in cheap crap fabric
It is a truth universally acknowledged that I am a cheap bitch. Even now most of the fabric I use is on sale in some way shape or form. Watching many of the you tubers you will fall in love with the natural silks, linens, cottons, velvets .... yeah that's for future you. There is no shame in polyester, cheap poplins, sale fabric from the haberdashery section. Even now, remember the India Wilkes dress, yeah if I stand to close to a fire it will melt.
See there is a chance, going my way that you won't be 100% in love with what you get at the end, but I guarantee you will learn fast and on the job. You will be proud of the final product but it won't be "perfect", so keep the financial risk low as you are happy with.
On top of that some of those really costly fabrics are a shit to work with, satin for example slides like a greased pig, velvet crushes if handled incorrectly, brocade can frey like crazy. Which leads me to a bonus Tip:
BONUS - Hef's top 3 Banned Fabric List:
In my years of sewing here is a list of fabric types I will avoid like the current plague....
1. Chiffon, in any incarnation though that shitty crystal stuff is the worst. Look at it wrong and you are left with nothing more than a pile of unwoven threads. It grips to nothing, slides around, puckers up and almost left me insane. Use at own risk.
2. Tapestry, Used this for the Elizabethan dress which looks fantastic but unravels worse than chiffon with the added problem of being the thickest fabric choice I have ever had. Literally broke 4 Leather needles while hand turning to try and sew the skirt on.
3. Really flowy light weight crepes. This stuff is sooooo slippery. Impossible to cut unless you trace the pattern piece and cut one at a time.
So there it is my advise for a beginner, just to what you want and have fun with it. I will be back soon to tell you all about my 1940's return to sewing and maybe even a plan out for some future works. Let me know what you think of my tips in the comments below.
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