I have to confess I am cheating a little on my hoop for the India Wilkes dress. I bought a hoop skirt for about $10 on Ebay years ago to go under my Elizabethan dress and I am just going to reuse that one. What I would love is to be able to make a hoop from Truly Victorian but the price of getting the pattern and materials to myself down-under is almost prohibitive and to be honest I do only have until the end of October so timing wise at this point it may be a little ambitious.
The hoop skirt I have is sadly only 3 hoops (recommendation appears to be 5 minimum on all historical costuming groups). Although all 3 hoops can be adjusted on my skirt the largest setting on the largest hoop is about 3.5m. After much discussion with those in the know I was advised that 3 was most likely closer to realistic. This is of benefit as I don't have as much fashion fabric as I would like so shrinking the hoop will give me a much better finish on the skirt.
Only problems remain that a 3 hoop will not hold the bell shape as well as a 5 so there is a rather more conical finish than I would prefer, and that one does not want their hoops showing through their skirt. This calls for a petticoat and so my research began.
Firstly and this took a long time to figure out and I know I would still be muddled if a friend had not politely pointed out my folly, but Americans call Muslin what we in Australia would call Calico (apparently). They also call Muslin Muslin and did use it for petticoats but when they say lightweight it doesn't mean necessarily feather light like out muslin is. If someone in the USA could clarify this that would be great but my understanding now is that our muslin is what you would use to wrap cheese and squeeze out excess liquid but not really sew a garment with. I know I have tried and that shit unravels as soon as you so much as breath on it - overlocked or not!
The good news about this is that a) I don't have to work with "muslin" again and b) the cotton linen blend that I have had 4.5m of in stash for the past 7 or so years will be more than adequate as a lightweight fabric option for my petticoat.
The other recommendation was at least 2 petticoats but given the lack of over skirt material (remembering that I need the petticoats to fit under its final hem) and the Australian heat in this instance I am going to be attempting to hide the hoops in a single petticoat. Not particularly accurate but cross fingers it works well enough for my purposes.
The next thing to do was decide on a style. Flounced would be my first choice as it pretty much can guarantee hiding hoops and gives a lot of volume where I want it most. The downside is that it also takes up excessive amounts of fabric. As in a friend who made a 5 tier flounced skirt used 11m of taffeta. Sure it looks amazing, but that is a tone of fabric that I don't have and don't want to buy. I am trying at least to use something from stash in every costume I make.
I also looked at the free to download TV pattern that makes a petticoat with an 8yd single flounce, but it appeared that I could not work my fabric enough to get the yardage where I needed it. It looked like I was going to need to do a single tube and MAYBE one flounce around the bottom, though that worried me because it would add bulk at the waist (something I want to avoid) and it may not give the added oomph at the top of the hoops I am hoping for.
I was at a loss researching and hunting when I came across my possible solution, in any case it is the one I chose to attempt. A three tiered petticoat with increasing volume in two places. My basic pattern will start with a trapezium 1.5m at the waist to minimize the bulk and 2m at the hem and sit about 25cm long. To that I will gather another piece 35-45cm long and hopefully around 4m top and bottom. To that a final tier of up to 8m at the hem and 45cm in length.
I am still working on the math for the final skirt length. I have however thought that the 35 then 45 would give a nice aesthetic, but the 45 would mean that I could just make one long 45cm run and use the gather foot and let it add what it will.
I won't get to start this till next week I am sure, especially since I still need to complete the pleated trim on my Victorian dress but I will be sure to keep you updated once it is done
caio for now
Tuesday, August 21, 2018
Victorian Underpinnings
One of the best things about hoarding tendencies is that I still have much of the stuff I started but never finished. So this post brings you something old and something new following the completion of the Victorian underwear. Rather than work chronologically I am going to go from the skin up.
Corset
My new corset arrived. I have to say I am much impressed for the price, the quality is quite good. The boning is definitely steel, they even include a little sample card of what is in it to prove to you its authenticity. Fabric seems strong and though not of highest quality it will do the job for now. One day I will make my own. Until then I won't go into too much detail.
Combination Underwear TV105
I bought the pattern with plans to create these way back but did not get round to it with all the other crazy Victorian stuff going on at the same time.
I planned to make it for my 2017 birthday and even bought all the fabric and trim at the beginning of that year. I am fairly certain I started almost straight away too, I got almost done and the project shelved for another year.
Finally they were finished about a month ago, just after the high tea. As they say better late than never.
They are made out of Batiste, I think in a cotton or poly/cotton blend. Given the wrinkle factor I am willing to believe it 100% cotton. Given the layering I will be doing in October I hope it is. Anyway cost wise I think it was about $5-7/m at spotlight. The colour is officially creame and I loved how the slight colour deviation with the white trim worked (trim was about $1.50/m).
I do love the buttons. I found them on a random fabric shop outing with my mother and they were cheap as chips, maybe 20c each.
I am unsure and undecided if I wear corset on skin or corset over the underwear. The pattern calls for you to take corseted measurements but I guess it could go either.
Making it was easier than I had first anticipated. I did have to unpick the back as I had not been consistent with my crossing overs but that would likely have been avoided had I not taken a year off in between.
The pattern calls for cap sleeves which I omitted in favour of bias sealing the arm scry. Pro tip the thinner bias tape works better than the wider one. Who would have thought.
It looks really odd until you add the buttons on too, so remember that you haven't stuffed up thats just how it looks.
Bustle TV101
Technically this is a remake. I had made this for a LARP costume years ago but when I went through costumes that had been in storage for a few years that bustle (hastily thrown together in inferior fabric choices and stash finds) had mold on it so I cut the bones back out and bought the fabric to remake.
Fast-forward 2 years and we have the completed bustle. You may notice a theme of white on off white. The fabric is a quilting cotton from spotlight which could have been anywhere from $5-10/m I can't remember but likely it was on sale as I rarely pay full price on anything. I have considered adding extra trim to my ruffles but they seem to work ok on their own. There is one ruffle missing, I don't have quite enough inches and I am still deciding whether to add it in or not. In any case I consider this finished and if I choose to jazz it up another time so be it.
Like all TV patterns I have ever worked with it runs together like a dream creating a much more complex looking garment than it really is. TV makes Victorian easy. I will warn - reinforce those bustle ties because as previously mentioned one of mine pulled right out of the stitching while getting dressed at the Carrington. Of cause I have fixed it now.
Petticoat TV170
I have now completed all 4 petticoats from a decade ago. This was the last and only one not complete at the time. It sat around in a box as pieces for the longest time but since I was now doing this new costume kick it seemed like the perfect opportunity to get it out and finalise. Only one teeny tiny issue.... what happened to my waistband, and why does nowhere sell lemon poplin anymore. Ok so the waistband doesn't match but I don't mind too much.
I must have lent this pattern out and have no idea what became of it, which is sad because it is a great pattern. On the flip side I do have a bustle and natural form petticoat from it so I am unlikely to need another. Still I hope it turns up.
Hardest part of this is all the gathering. I bought a gather foot to do it for me but at the end of the day hand gathering required less unpicking. I will master the gather foot one day though. (and yes all the gathering on these outfits has been done by hand using the two gather stitch method).
well that is all the unmentionables mentioned. For more information on them please follow the links provided
Corset
My new corset arrived. I have to say I am much impressed for the price, the quality is quite good. The boning is definitely steel, they even include a little sample card of what is in it to prove to you its authenticity. Fabric seems strong and though not of highest quality it will do the job for now. One day I will make my own. Until then I won't go into too much detail.
Combination Underwear TV105
I bought the pattern with plans to create these way back but did not get round to it with all the other crazy Victorian stuff going on at the same time.
I planned to make it for my 2017 birthday and even bought all the fabric and trim at the beginning of that year. I am fairly certain I started almost straight away too, I got almost done and the project shelved for another year.
Finally they were finished about a month ago, just after the high tea. As they say better late than never.
They are made out of Batiste, I think in a cotton or poly/cotton blend. Given the wrinkle factor I am willing to believe it 100% cotton. Given the layering I will be doing in October I hope it is. Anyway cost wise I think it was about $5-7/m at spotlight. The colour is officially creame and I loved how the slight colour deviation with the white trim worked (trim was about $1.50/m).
I do love the buttons. I found them on a random fabric shop outing with my mother and they were cheap as chips, maybe 20c each.
I am unsure and undecided if I wear corset on skin or corset over the underwear. The pattern calls for you to take corseted measurements but I guess it could go either.
Making it was easier than I had first anticipated. I did have to unpick the back as I had not been consistent with my crossing overs but that would likely have been avoided had I not taken a year off in between.
The pattern calls for cap sleeves which I omitted in favour of bias sealing the arm scry. Pro tip the thinner bias tape works better than the wider one. Who would have thought.
It looks really odd until you add the buttons on too, so remember that you haven't stuffed up thats just how it looks.
Bustle TV101
Technically this is a remake. I had made this for a LARP costume years ago but when I went through costumes that had been in storage for a few years that bustle (hastily thrown together in inferior fabric choices and stash finds) had mold on it so I cut the bones back out and bought the fabric to remake.
Fast-forward 2 years and we have the completed bustle. You may notice a theme of white on off white. The fabric is a quilting cotton from spotlight which could have been anywhere from $5-10/m I can't remember but likely it was on sale as I rarely pay full price on anything. I have considered adding extra trim to my ruffles but they seem to work ok on their own. There is one ruffle missing, I don't have quite enough inches and I am still deciding whether to add it in or not. In any case I consider this finished and if I choose to jazz it up another time so be it.
Like all TV patterns I have ever worked with it runs together like a dream creating a much more complex looking garment than it really is. TV makes Victorian easy. I will warn - reinforce those bustle ties because as previously mentioned one of mine pulled right out of the stitching while getting dressed at the Carrington. Of cause I have fixed it now.
Petticoat TV170
I have now completed all 4 petticoats from a decade ago. This was the last and only one not complete at the time. It sat around in a box as pieces for the longest time but since I was now doing this new costume kick it seemed like the perfect opportunity to get it out and finalise. Only one teeny tiny issue.... what happened to my waistband, and why does nowhere sell lemon poplin anymore. Ok so the waistband doesn't match but I don't mind too much.
I must have lent this pattern out and have no idea what became of it, which is sad because it is a great pattern. On the flip side I do have a bustle and natural form petticoat from it so I am unlikely to need another. Still I hope it turns up.
Hardest part of this is all the gathering. I bought a gather foot to do it for me but at the end of the day hand gathering required less unpicking. I will master the gather foot one day though. (and yes all the gathering on these outfits has been done by hand using the two gather stitch method).
well that is all the unmentionables mentioned. For more information on them please follow the links provided
Thursday, August 16, 2018
India Wilkes - The devil is in the detail
As promised, I continue my documenting of the India Wilkes costume with this post on planning and sourcing. Before I jump right in though let me just say a few words about my motivation.
I understand that there are people out there making fully accurate historical representations of gowns and they look awesome. I wish I could do that, I really do but there are several obstacles standing in my way. First and most obviously is money and my husbands distaste of me spending to much of it. Historically accurate materials can cost a fortune as a well bred lady would be wearing silk or wool mostly (from what I have looked into). Whilst cotton was prevalent the best description I found for it was on this blog which explained quite articulately that cotton was basically the equivalent of track pants, fine for house wear but if you wear it down the shops someones going to judge.
Well silk costs about the same as a kidney on the black market and I happen to have a lanolin allergy so can't wear wool (yes I know the blog says hypoallergenic... but its just wrong). Plus we do this costuming for fun, not for accuracy. As such if you are looking to accurately represent an historical garment probably best not to follow my processes. If you are after something that passes for a decent price my thrifty cut corners methods will warm the cockles of your cold dead accuracy unfeeling heart. So short version is I know its not accurate no need to point it out.
Anyway onto the show.
Getting Aquainted
As mentioned previously once I had decided on civil war it didn't take long to decide that I was going to have my very own India Wilkes twelve oaks dress. The first step I took was to become more familiar with India's dress - unfortunately I could not at the time locate my DVD copy and to get it over our streaming services would cost money that I didn't want to spend on something I know I own so internet searches would have to do. Well searches and discussions with my facebook friends.
I won't put every picture or angle on here but sufficed to say this ended up being the gleaming find in my image searches, It is one of the costume still test shots of Alicia Rhett in the outfit full length.
This image is fantastic because it really brings to light the fine details that could be missed if you were watching the film in standard definition. The covered buttons on the hem and sleeves show up perfectly here.
My biggest problem was colour. As you can see from this shot the dress is in an odd shade somewhere between orange brown and yellow. Some of the colour searches I used included Mustard (too yellow), Burnt Orange (too orange), Rust (too red) and Brown in general. I was losing faith I would ever find the colour or anything close enough. Seems my mother was correct that baby poo brown was just not prevalent. To be honest I didn't find the colour until I had given up and started searching fabric types.
The second issue was cost of fabric. I mean those skirts could have meters and meters in them. One facebook group advised that you want at least double your hoop!!! that is a hem of 7m in my case (though I have been told by the same person to shrink my hoop down to a more accurate 3m circumference). So fabric type was considered long and hard. The dress doesn't have much shine so most silks seemed off, and well too costly anyway. Wool was to be honest most likely the fabric of this costume but I can't wear it. I wanted something more dressy than cotton, light to midweight and not to costly.
Pattern Selection
Much easier to source was style/pattern. The bodice appears to be almost identical to the TV440 with the high neckline, though the over sleeves will require some work in shrinking from the full pergoda. Having worked with and loved Truly Victorian patterns before I had no issue in buying this.
The skirt style is more elusive. I searched the TV patterns for something like it but it seems its not there. Likely because the pattern for this skirt is too easy. After discussions and some thought I decided it was simply a tube gathered to a waistband and no pattern would be required.
Fabric Selection
As mentioned above cost was an issue, I won't say I didn't dabble in the silks online but in the end when you need a lot of yardage in the skirt $20USD at cheapest for the fabric makes the costume prohibitive. My next search was actually into polyester with taffeta but the results all seemed too shiny for the look I wanted.
Eventually I moved to whatever so long as it was affordable and the right colour and the colour search began - which proved fruitless. Other than baby poo brown I had no idea what to call the colour of the dress and most places have far more poetic names for their fabric colours. One night no idea why I had an epiphany, like many apparently who came before I thought of cause it must be cotton and semi shiny cotton is sateen. A search for Sateen led me to this, on fabric.com
The colour it is Umber and it came up in a sateen search so even though the description didn't say it I think that is what it is. Bonus was that it was on mad sale at over 50% off. Unfortunately I did the conversion maths and it came up at just shy of $200AUD for the yardage I would need including the postage. To be fair had this been in Australia somewhere I likely would have just jumped in, but coming from America what if it arrived and it was too lightweight, too heavy weight, too dull, not the right colour...... Yes I know I can order a swatch for next to nothing but apparently they still want the same postage ($25+USD) to send a tiny swatch to me. The risk seemed to big.
At least now I was armed with a colour name and a fabric type so my mother and I headed to our favourite fabric area where you find absolute bargains with hopes and prayers for a miracle from the sewing gods.
Now this is not the exact colour, but I have been told it is nicer, and at only $4AUD/m it was a total of $30 (yes I got a discount for end of roll) than the perfect colour above. Sometimes sacrifices need to be made and while I am a bit bummed not to be getting the perfect colour I must say the more I look at what I have the better I feel about it.
Bare in mind it isn't as shiny as it looks, the only way I could get close to the actual colour was to use flash. Next challenge is the yardage. I worked out that with the skirt adding 1m to my hem (for fabric conservation purposes, trust me had their been more fabric I would have bought more for that price) I would need at least 5yds or 4.5m. The Bodice says it requires 3.5yds or 3.2m, though I will be saving fabric in the sleeves and that is based on 44" and I have 54". I have 7.5m maybe as much as 8 as the place we buy from always measures liberally. On top of that I need to cover all the buttons and do the trims.
My thought at this stage is my best bet is to do as suggested shrink my hoop (the hoop has the capability) to 3m saving .5m required. be very careful with lay for bodice and save every scrap for trims and then make skirt with whatever is left to maximize the amount of ruffle I have. I am at least fairly certain with 52" I can do it in one drop.
Anyway that's all I have for now. I will check back in to discuss the underpinnings later in the week.
I understand that there are people out there making fully accurate historical representations of gowns and they look awesome. I wish I could do that, I really do but there are several obstacles standing in my way. First and most obviously is money and my husbands distaste of me spending to much of it. Historically accurate materials can cost a fortune as a well bred lady would be wearing silk or wool mostly (from what I have looked into). Whilst cotton was prevalent the best description I found for it was on this blog which explained quite articulately that cotton was basically the equivalent of track pants, fine for house wear but if you wear it down the shops someones going to judge.
Well silk costs about the same as a kidney on the black market and I happen to have a lanolin allergy so can't wear wool (yes I know the blog says hypoallergenic... but its just wrong). Plus we do this costuming for fun, not for accuracy. As such if you are looking to accurately represent an historical garment probably best not to follow my processes. If you are after something that passes for a decent price my thrifty cut corners methods will warm the cockles of your cold dead accuracy unfeeling heart. So short version is I know its not accurate no need to point it out.
Anyway onto the show.
Getting Aquainted
As mentioned previously once I had decided on civil war it didn't take long to decide that I was going to have my very own India Wilkes twelve oaks dress. The first step I took was to become more familiar with India's dress - unfortunately I could not at the time locate my DVD copy and to get it over our streaming services would cost money that I didn't want to spend on something I know I own so internet searches would have to do. Well searches and discussions with my facebook friends.
I won't put every picture or angle on here but sufficed to say this ended up being the gleaming find in my image searches, It is one of the costume still test shots of Alicia Rhett in the outfit full length.
This image is fantastic because it really brings to light the fine details that could be missed if you were watching the film in standard definition. The covered buttons on the hem and sleeves show up perfectly here.
My biggest problem was colour. As you can see from this shot the dress is in an odd shade somewhere between orange brown and yellow. Some of the colour searches I used included Mustard (too yellow), Burnt Orange (too orange), Rust (too red) and Brown in general. I was losing faith I would ever find the colour or anything close enough. Seems my mother was correct that baby poo brown was just not prevalent. To be honest I didn't find the colour until I had given up and started searching fabric types.
The second issue was cost of fabric. I mean those skirts could have meters and meters in them. One facebook group advised that you want at least double your hoop!!! that is a hem of 7m in my case (though I have been told by the same person to shrink my hoop down to a more accurate 3m circumference). So fabric type was considered long and hard. The dress doesn't have much shine so most silks seemed off, and well too costly anyway. Wool was to be honest most likely the fabric of this costume but I can't wear it. I wanted something more dressy than cotton, light to midweight and not to costly.
Pattern Selection
Much easier to source was style/pattern. The bodice appears to be almost identical to the TV440 with the high neckline, though the over sleeves will require some work in shrinking from the full pergoda. Having worked with and loved Truly Victorian patterns before I had no issue in buying this.
The skirt style is more elusive. I searched the TV patterns for something like it but it seems its not there. Likely because the pattern for this skirt is too easy. After discussions and some thought I decided it was simply a tube gathered to a waistband and no pattern would be required.
Fabric Selection
As mentioned above cost was an issue, I won't say I didn't dabble in the silks online but in the end when you need a lot of yardage in the skirt $20USD at cheapest for the fabric makes the costume prohibitive. My next search was actually into polyester with taffeta but the results all seemed too shiny for the look I wanted.
Eventually I moved to whatever so long as it was affordable and the right colour and the colour search began - which proved fruitless. Other than baby poo brown I had no idea what to call the colour of the dress and most places have far more poetic names for their fabric colours. One night no idea why I had an epiphany, like many apparently who came before I thought of cause it must be cotton and semi shiny cotton is sateen. A search for Sateen led me to this, on fabric.com
The colour it is Umber and it came up in a sateen search so even though the description didn't say it I think that is what it is. Bonus was that it was on mad sale at over 50% off. Unfortunately I did the conversion maths and it came up at just shy of $200AUD for the yardage I would need including the postage. To be fair had this been in Australia somewhere I likely would have just jumped in, but coming from America what if it arrived and it was too lightweight, too heavy weight, too dull, not the right colour...... Yes I know I can order a swatch for next to nothing but apparently they still want the same postage ($25+USD) to send a tiny swatch to me. The risk seemed to big.
At least now I was armed with a colour name and a fabric type so my mother and I headed to our favourite fabric area where you find absolute bargains with hopes and prayers for a miracle from the sewing gods.
Now this is not the exact colour, but I have been told it is nicer, and at only $4AUD/m it was a total of $30 (yes I got a discount for end of roll) than the perfect colour above. Sometimes sacrifices need to be made and while I am a bit bummed not to be getting the perfect colour I must say the more I look at what I have the better I feel about it.
Bare in mind it isn't as shiny as it looks, the only way I could get close to the actual colour was to use flash. Next challenge is the yardage. I worked out that with the skirt adding 1m to my hem (for fabric conservation purposes, trust me had their been more fabric I would have bought more for that price) I would need at least 5yds or 4.5m. The Bodice says it requires 3.5yds or 3.2m, though I will be saving fabric in the sleeves and that is based on 44" and I have 54". I have 7.5m maybe as much as 8 as the place we buy from always measures liberally. On top of that I need to cover all the buttons and do the trims.
My thought at this stage is my best bet is to do as suggested shrink my hoop (the hoop has the capability) to 3m saving .5m required. be very careful with lay for bodice and save every scrap for trims and then make skirt with whatever is left to maximize the amount of ruffle I have. I am at least fairly certain with 52" I can do it in one drop.
Anyway that's all I have for now. I will check back in to discuss the underpinnings later in the week.
Plans for October - the India Wilkes dress
The historical picnic society will be heading to the Hunter Valley Gardens in October for some more classy costumed shenanigans.
Hunter valley gardens is a series of manicured gardens in various styles including the storybook garden (my favourite) Asiatic gardens, traditional British etc. basically there are loads of beautiful backdrops for photos. The plan is to bus down together then have high tea there before a stroll and photos. I’ve even convinced my Husband to accompany me.
So step one is obviously costume plans. So I thought I would follow this one properly and start the blog at the beginning rather than just one post at the end.
I tossed up between an Edwardian "Gibson girl" kind of look and a Civil War hoop skirt. One of the other lovely ladies who helps organise these outings pointed out - passers by love hoops. I don't know if I ever mentioned this but I am a crowd pleaser so that sealed the deal.
Like all people who aren't too caught up in historical accuracy when planning a civil war recreation I turned to the master of all civil war recreations - Walter Plunkett and Gone with the Wind. Here is a second confession, I have always loved India Wilkes. As my friend put it the sour faced second string bitch. And I really really love her outfit from the twelve oaks picnic. So it was decided almost instantly that this would be my dress, and so the planning could begin.
Costume pieces needed:
Hunter valley gardens is a series of manicured gardens in various styles including the storybook garden (my favourite) Asiatic gardens, traditional British etc. basically there are loads of beautiful backdrops for photos. The plan is to bus down together then have high tea there before a stroll and photos. I’ve even convinced my Husband to accompany me.
So step one is obviously costume plans. So I thought I would follow this one properly and start the blog at the beginning rather than just one post at the end.
I tossed up between an Edwardian "Gibson girl" kind of look and a Civil War hoop skirt. One of the other lovely ladies who helps organise these outings pointed out - passers by love hoops. I don't know if I ever mentioned this but I am a crowd pleaser so that sealed the deal.
Like all people who aren't too caught up in historical accuracy when planning a civil war recreation I turned to the master of all civil war recreations - Walter Plunkett and Gone with the Wind. Here is a second confession, I have always loved India Wilkes. As my friend put it the sour faced second string bitch. And I really really love her outfit from the twelve oaks picnic. So it was decided almost instantly that this would be my dress, and so the planning could begin.
Costume pieces needed:
- Corset - already ordered for previous Victorian and was on its way
- Victorian underwear - Use the combination underwear from TV105 made for previous victorian. I know its probably not accurate but it provides draws and corset cover in one so winning
- Hoop Petticoat - Hoping to be able to use the china cheapie that I got for the Elizabethan dress.
- Petticoat - Needs to be made, possibly from the free TV Pattern or hopefully fully flounced if I can work out my own pattern
- Bodice - Pergoda Bodice TV440 - now comes with undersleeves so no need to get an extra layer in shirt
- Overskirt - Self draft gathering tube to waistband.
- Snood - the headpeice, I will try and find on ebay or etsy
- Shrug - Crochet is not my thing so I may have to buy this one too
- Shoes - Given the walking I will be looking at ballet flats.
Watch out for my next post which will be breaking down the outer layers, including sourcing fabric, and planning decorative trims.
Happy sewing
Monday, August 6, 2018
A Corsetary Tale
As I get more and more into costumes I find myself in need of a new corset. This if foreign territory for me as an ex goth all my costume needs thus far were met by either not requiring corsetry, regency half stays for example, or by utilizing one of my Gallery Serpentine corsets of which I had a fair few. Notably in old Gallery Serpentine Vernacular a Victorian and Spanish Harlot over bust and an under bust who's style name escapes me.
Historically speaking Victorian provides the hourglass shape, Spanish Harlot the conical shape and the under bust fitted any other need. I remember buying all bar the Spanish Harlot out of a seconds box (not that I was bothered by a second) and they cost maybe 50-100 each in early 2000's dollars.
Well the times do change and I find that my post baby and junk food addicted body with the slowed metabolism of a 30+ year old did not bode well for fitting into my corsets bought when I was around well american size zero. The Harlot bought when I was first getting into corsets still fits (size 12 Australian) because it was bought big so as to not cinch to much, but the Victorian and under bust run the risk of the side bones sitting under my bust. Honest I wore the Victorian to the high tea and despite knee to back lacing I still had a good 4-5 inch gap at the lace.
The decision was made then if I am to get back into the historical costumes I would require a new corset. So, the search began.
Gallery Serpentine make outstanding corsets, I truly mean that. Other than the fit, which is my own fault, my "seconds" corsets are still going strong over 10 years on. They are quality ++ because trust me the first 5 of those ten years saw weekly lacing of these bad boys. However they are made as outerwear, and therefore use beautiful fabrics and design flourishes. If you are in the market for a corset that can be used as a clothing option and want something that will last I highly recommend talking to them or at lease perusing their website (linked above).
Alas for me who wants it only as underwear and only on occasions where I have need of an historical costume they are priced out of the market - and no longer being of sample size its harder to find ones that will fit in the under $165 sale area. Also for historical costumes they may actually be too good. they have a full lining and interlining and seem much heavier than some of the "traditional" underwear corsets I have seen.
For making your own I found Redthreaded.com and to be honest this was a real consideration. They do make them for you at a high price (reasonable for what you get but more than i want to spend) but they also provide kits so you can make at home. Sometime in the future I may go down this path but time is of the essence and I don't really know how long it would take for me to do something like that. Still it seemed like the best option
Lastly a friend of mine had a corset from an Australian based website (though I assume made in asia somewhere) They seamed to work ok, quality is ok and prices are reasonable. More than reasonable when you take into account the fact that if you buy one you get one free. Don't be fooled it may seem like this is a BIG SALE but I don't think there has ever been a time that I have looked to this site and not seen the buy one get one free deal.
Biggest issue is that I didn't need two, nor did I want to pay for two so I put out a call to see if anyone else wanted to get a corset and split the costs. Thankfully someone did. Then all that was left was to select the corset.
I had a choice of two one with more cinch and slightly higher cost and one with more comfort including hip gores. In the end comfort won out and this is what I have coming to me in the next 11 days
I am hoping that the extra hip space will make it useful in achieving the 50's wiggle look along with Victorian but for the grand sum of around $60 I am sure it will do the job I require of it. The best news is that with this I will be able to photograph myself in the remixed Victorian as well as begin the plans on future projects such as the India Wilkes dress and the Katrina Van Tassel dress. One of which I will have for October.
Historically speaking Victorian provides the hourglass shape, Spanish Harlot the conical shape and the under bust fitted any other need. I remember buying all bar the Spanish Harlot out of a seconds box (not that I was bothered by a second) and they cost maybe 50-100 each in early 2000's dollars.
Well the times do change and I find that my post baby and junk food addicted body with the slowed metabolism of a 30+ year old did not bode well for fitting into my corsets bought when I was around well american size zero. The Harlot bought when I was first getting into corsets still fits (size 12 Australian) because it was bought big so as to not cinch to much, but the Victorian and under bust run the risk of the side bones sitting under my bust. Honest I wore the Victorian to the high tea and despite knee to back lacing I still had a good 4-5 inch gap at the lace.
The decision was made then if I am to get back into the historical costumes I would require a new corset. So, the search began.
Gallery Serpentine make outstanding corsets, I truly mean that. Other than the fit, which is my own fault, my "seconds" corsets are still going strong over 10 years on. They are quality ++ because trust me the first 5 of those ten years saw weekly lacing of these bad boys. However they are made as outerwear, and therefore use beautiful fabrics and design flourishes. If you are in the market for a corset that can be used as a clothing option and want something that will last I highly recommend talking to them or at lease perusing their website (linked above).
Alas for me who wants it only as underwear and only on occasions where I have need of an historical costume they are priced out of the market - and no longer being of sample size its harder to find ones that will fit in the under $165 sale area. Also for historical costumes they may actually be too good. they have a full lining and interlining and seem much heavier than some of the "traditional" underwear corsets I have seen.
For making your own I found Redthreaded.com and to be honest this was a real consideration. They do make them for you at a high price (reasonable for what you get but more than i want to spend) but they also provide kits so you can make at home. Sometime in the future I may go down this path but time is of the essence and I don't really know how long it would take for me to do something like that. Still it seemed like the best option
Lastly a friend of mine had a corset from an Australian based website (though I assume made in asia somewhere) They seamed to work ok, quality is ok and prices are reasonable. More than reasonable when you take into account the fact that if you buy one you get one free. Don't be fooled it may seem like this is a BIG SALE but I don't think there has ever been a time that I have looked to this site and not seen the buy one get one free deal.
Biggest issue is that I didn't need two, nor did I want to pay for two so I put out a call to see if anyone else wanted to get a corset and split the costs. Thankfully someone did. Then all that was left was to select the corset.
I had a choice of two one with more cinch and slightly higher cost and one with more comfort including hip gores. In the end comfort won out and this is what I have coming to me in the next 11 days
Monday, July 30, 2018
Epic UFO Clean.
The back room at our house functions as both an office for my husband and the storage facility for all our crap; nik-naks and collectibles, books, old trophies, my now diminished costume collection and of cause all the sewing stuff and stash mountain.
We have been trying to consolidate the mass of hoarding that the room contains and will periodically bring out a box or two and clean through it slowly culling what we have. Among these now lives the UFO box.
To be honest I don't even know why half finished projects are called UFO's or why some of my costumes (looking at you Elizabethan) are technically still UFO (Looking at you hems) but sufficed to say there is a lot of unfinished work. Even to the point that sometimes in these clean outs I just decide that I don't want to ever finish that project and put it in the bin. So I think as I work though being more precise of my work and finalising things to a higher standard that I need to also clear out this bucket.
Probably the next job I have is the Hem of the underskirt on my Elizabethan as mentioned above and hopefully refitting the shoulders (they fitted when first done but as the stuffed shoulder rolls were added the weight became to much). I also think it may be worthwhile getting a carriage pleat going on the back of the dress but then there is the issue of me not knowing how to carriage pleat lol. The fun bit about all this is that I have worn the dress about 5 times in its existence even with these issues.
I have a fully cut out black velveteen Victorian frock coat for my husband. Again a decade old project that dates back to the great Victorian nightmare. I have a dress with some embroidery done on the belt and yoke but sleeves still to be added and more embroidery to finish. This dress predates even the Victorian stuff and I no longer play the character in the game that it relates to but should get it done regardless.
A 50's dress that was begun about 6 years ago minimum for a friend of mine sits requiring sleeves, hem and yoke. A dress finished but with a broken zip, shorts without a waistband, you name it I have it half done and waiting for my interest.
I could put together a list but sometimes its just fun finding them occasionally and realising they may come in handy.
Take for example the petticoat TV170. I cut the pieces and had them all overlocked in the Victorian nightmare and never got any further. Originally one of my friends was going to wear it but with all the other stuff I was making it sat unfinished. I pulled it out about 5 years later and added the lace trim to the bottom ruffle. Then again it sat for years until this month I looked at the Victorian I had made for high tea and thought a petticoat would really help this. Last night it reached its final hurrah.
Who knows whats up next once I finish this Victorian but I am sure it will be fun :)
We have been trying to consolidate the mass of hoarding that the room contains and will periodically bring out a box or two and clean through it slowly culling what we have. Among these now lives the UFO box.
To be honest I don't even know why half finished projects are called UFO's or why some of my costumes (looking at you Elizabethan) are technically still UFO (Looking at you hems) but sufficed to say there is a lot of unfinished work. Even to the point that sometimes in these clean outs I just decide that I don't want to ever finish that project and put it in the bin. So I think as I work though being more precise of my work and finalising things to a higher standard that I need to also clear out this bucket.
Probably the next job I have is the Hem of the underskirt on my Elizabethan as mentioned above and hopefully refitting the shoulders (they fitted when first done but as the stuffed shoulder rolls were added the weight became to much). I also think it may be worthwhile getting a carriage pleat going on the back of the dress but then there is the issue of me not knowing how to carriage pleat lol. The fun bit about all this is that I have worn the dress about 5 times in its existence even with these issues.
I have a fully cut out black velveteen Victorian frock coat for my husband. Again a decade old project that dates back to the great Victorian nightmare. I have a dress with some embroidery done on the belt and yoke but sleeves still to be added and more embroidery to finish. This dress predates even the Victorian stuff and I no longer play the character in the game that it relates to but should get it done regardless.
A 50's dress that was begun about 6 years ago minimum for a friend of mine sits requiring sleeves, hem and yoke. A dress finished but with a broken zip, shorts without a waistband, you name it I have it half done and waiting for my interest.
I could put together a list but sometimes its just fun finding them occasionally and realising they may come in handy.
Take for example the petticoat TV170. I cut the pieces and had them all overlocked in the Victorian nightmare and never got any further. Originally one of my friends was going to wear it but with all the other stuff I was making it sat unfinished. I pulled it out about 5 years later and added the lace trim to the bottom ruffle. Then again it sat for years until this month I looked at the Victorian I had made for high tea and thought a petticoat would really help this. Last night it reached its final hurrah.
Who knows whats up next once I finish this Victorian but I am sure it will be fun :)
Beatles dress - update
A good day is the day you fit back into a dress you made and loved.
It was about a year ago now, when I played Candy in a production of one flew over the cuckoos nest. So my psychedelic Beatles dress was prime. And as I ended up in my underwear so was diet and exercise.
Don't believe it would look this good now but finally a picture of me in the dress as it was intended for you all to enjoy
It was about a year ago now, when I played Candy in a production of one flew over the cuckoos nest. So my psychedelic Beatles dress was prime. And as I ended up in my underwear so was diet and exercise.
Don't believe it would look this good now but finally a picture of me in the dress as it was intended for you all to enjoy
Sunday, July 29, 2018
Victorian Christmas in July
A year ago (as it turns out to the day) I suggested to some friends that we go to the Carrington Hotel in Katoomba in July dressed in Victorian for high tea.
I chose the The Carrington, which originally opened in 1883 because it retains that old world charm. Every year they decorate a tree and put all the trimmings out in July and year round they do a well-priced and tasty high tea. You can visit the dining room or ballroom for the high tea (depending where they are serving) the reception area, two lounges, library, billiards and office, all decorated in period charm.
I set the wheels in motion with a tentative early july date in September for the Historical Picnic Society, and whilst the numbers on the day were low (just the three of us) a good time was had by all. Personally I think we made several patrons day as they oohed and ahhed at us walking through to take photos at various hotel locations. One group who all drove vintage triumphs even asked for our photos.
So this being about sewing you can see how the idea linked into my plans for a full Victorian outfit last year. Let’s just say I was a bit behind on this one. Not that I haven’t been sewing just that instead of working on this plan I have made multiple kids outfits (post to come) a costume for stage and a new dress. On top of all this it is really really hard to sew with a two year old who loves to help. Last night I was pinned in the leg three times as he “helped” me with some hand sewing.
Anyway in true Hef fashion despite a year lead time I created my entire outfit in under a week. Planning and tracing took about 3 days and then I made the entire thing in one night (bustle not included). There are further plans to complete this work to a much much higher standard as per the original plan but this is the shell in which I start.
I have continued to add and improve on this which will require another post once done
I have continued to add and improve on this which will require another post once done
The outfit
This took about a day from start to finish including all the ruffles being done by hand. Yes I know I bought a ruffle foot but damned be to the gods if I can work out how to use it. This included tracing, cutting and all finishes. I think there is a couple of changes I would like to make to it but all in all it works and is a solid piece.
The wires are a size Medium. I am not. I was once and who knows maybe I will be again one day but it is not this day. However because of the wire size and the plan to wear a corset I made the medium anyway. For this reason the case isn’t quite as wide as my hips, or at least I assume it isn’t as wide as it should be which gives a smaller silhouette than it should. Given that I am not THAT worried about historical accuracy I don’t think this is a big problem.
Things that I am missing include the bottom ruffle (not enough fabric left, due to indiscriminate cutting) what I may do is just do a less ruffled bottom ruffle to finish it. I am also thinking I may add some lace to the bottom of each ruffle just to add some interest.
Unfortunately, my bustle had a wardrobe malfunction internally on the day. The ties that control the bottom wire decided they would rather not exist than deal with the strain of my butt and the stitching on one side came undone. Consequently the bustle doesn’t sit quite right in the photos but we make do. The issue has been repaired and seems to be holding much more strongly now. I assume this strain to be based on that size issue previously discussed.
The fabric is a quilting cotton that I picked up in spotlight a year ago specifically for the skin up Victorian project so technically it was stash fabric. I picked it because it is of neutral shading but has this pretty white print on it that is barely noticeable. I thought it was both pretty and likely to hide under any colour skirt I should choose.
I tossed and turned over this or the wash overskirt with the fabric choices. I would have preferred the more Austere 1887 outfit but concern over yardage lead me back to the polonaise. Sadly once all was said and done I probably could have done the wash but oh well that will just need to be a project for another day. I had two different fabric choices, one was a light blue stripe with white underskirt and the second (which I went with) was the brocade and green satin.
The biggest benefit of the polonaise is that having made it twice before (once as per the previous post and then again as a stage costume) I knew that I could throw it together quite quickly, and as previously mentioned anything worth doing is worth doing last minute.
The Brocade I got for a steal about 3 months ago. 50% off the already marked down price at spotlight brought it down to $5/m. The Green Duchess has been in the stash for years, since 2012 to be exact. I remember it was like $2/m at Cabramatta and I wasn’t going to get any for me then a friend I was with bought me 4m as a present for helping her make a costume. For cheap fabric its actually pretty nice to touch and has a lot of body. I was concerned that they didn’t go together but after a quick facebook survey I ended up reassured. In the end I went with this over the light blue and white because I felt that the stripes could work well as a regency where this was less versatile, and who can turn up a red/green combo for Christmas in July.
As noted the polonaise was made in a single night and the underskirt the following morning before we left. As such I can’t say that on this wearing the finishes were, well finished. All my internals were open and lining unsealed, there was no boning in the polonaise, the ties in the bustle bit were tacked in bias binding. I added the snap front closure in the morning. Luckily you can’t really see any of the rush in the wear but let’s say the slightly too small corset was knee in back tight just to allow the snaps to stay snapped.
After being totally jealous of the finishes on Marion’s Beautiful taffeta extravaganza I have decided not to let sleeping dogs lie and begun the process of finishing the internals and closing off seams, upgrading and more thoughtfully placing the bustle ties and considering closure options. Do I go buttons or hooks and eyes…. So hard to decide. Anyway I will repost with the updated, finished and fully tizzed up version once complete.
The underskirt is very simple, three front gores and two back pieces gathered onto a waist band. I do think maybe this skirt has a little too much fullness for the outfit and I MAY decide to take out some of the a line in the front gores at least, however these shots only have the bustle underneath and perhaps with a finished petticoat the skirt will hold itself better.
Made in a matter of hours from trace to wear, there is a few things I want to change on this. Firstly the waistband is too big. I mean it is the right size for me without a corset but can’t be tightened to the corseted waist measurement. I am thinking of removing the ties and adding a button/buttons to allow for both sizes to be utilised.
Secondly it is very plain, I have plans to add a pleated ruffle around the bottom just to dress it up more to the Victorian over-dressed standards. I have enough fabric left for it. I also may pink the internal seams. Full sealing isn’t necessary as it won’t be a high wash item.
Missing items
TV105 – all in one underwear. This is about 80% done now so its on the to do pile
TV170 – Petticoat, that has been hanging around about a decade now unfinished. Movement has happened and it will be finished in the next few weeks for the finalised. Fun Fact I lost the waistband so now will need to buy just a smidge of yellow poplin to be able to finalise.
Monday, July 23, 2018
New Projects
well this really is just a post for me so I won’t be particularly verbose.
I have renewed my love of costume. It’s taken a lot longer to get my costume done than I had originally thought but I hear kids will do that to you.
Anyway I haven’t skin up completed but I have almost finished underwear. A completed bustle. And a polonaise and basic skirt. It’s been worn but work continues I will do a more full post on Victorian for you all in the next week or so.
This post is really to get some more plans written down.
1. Victorian
2. Fix Elizabethan
3. Regency that fits inc half stays.
4. Tudor
5. Robe de anglaise
6. Robe de Francois
7. Pre civil war cage
8. Medieval
I will edit this list with further ideas and plans as I go.
I have renewed my love of costume. It’s taken a lot longer to get my costume done than I had originally thought but I hear kids will do that to you.
Anyway I haven’t skin up completed but I have almost finished underwear. A completed bustle. And a polonaise and basic skirt. It’s been worn but work continues I will do a more full post on Victorian for you all in the next week or so.
This post is really to get some more plans written down.
1. Victorian
2. Fix Elizabethan
3. Regency that fits inc half stays.
4. Tudor
5. Robe de anglaise
6. Robe de Francois
7. Pre civil war cage
8. Medieval
I will edit this list with further ideas and plans as I go.
Saturday, February 11, 2017
A Look back at my Victorian Past Part 5 – Stacey's Ensemble
This was a nightmare of a costume to make. Bit of background - these costumes were made for a game at a role-playing convention, yes it has crossed my mind since that it was a lot of work for 3 hours of use but that aside. In addition to all the Victorian costumes I was also making all these pirate costumes (that were worn for the 4 days).
I did get a lot of help from the lovely ladies but I was at the time the primary sewist. Stacey was the second and so she made her pirate outfit and was also going to make her Victorian. Pirate went off without a hitch but Victorian was presented to me the afternoon before con, the self drafted underskirt complete and the Wash over skirt mostly complete but the bodice was simply pieces.
Now remember when I said that TV had the best sizing system ever - well Stacey did not listen to me and had decided she would need the largest pattern size and thus traced and cut that out. So Yeah, perhaps a post on perception v's reality may be in order some time. Anyhow we were up until about 4 or 5am getting this completed a task made all the more fun by Stacey's bizarre ability to stab herself with any pin post about 3am to which the sewing hours after that became known as stab o'clock.
I won't break this one down as I did the last ones because as I have already mentioned I didn't sew a lot of it. From what I can tell the Wash Over skirt sews together well looks great and is easy to deal with in terms of cleaning and storing. The whole skirt flattens out for ironing and cleaning. what I will focus on is the bodice.
We changed up the sleeves (to make it easier at stab o'clock) and changed the neckline quite substantially. I was especially proud of having lined up the chevron despite the resizing stress. I assume it would have sewn together much better if the proper instructions were followed from the start. Lucky I had some practice with the whole resize thing on my own bodice so it wasn't completely foreign though I would still only rate myself novice at best.
Anyway there is now only one Victorian to go but alas I will need to get a better picture as the one I have is only from behind.
I did get a lot of help from the lovely ladies but I was at the time the primary sewist. Stacey was the second and so she made her pirate outfit and was also going to make her Victorian. Pirate went off without a hitch but Victorian was presented to me the afternoon before con, the self drafted underskirt complete and the Wash over skirt mostly complete but the bodice was simply pieces.
Now remember when I said that TV had the best sizing system ever - well Stacey did not listen to me and had decided she would need the largest pattern size and thus traced and cut that out. So Yeah, perhaps a post on perception v's reality may be in order some time. Anyhow we were up until about 4 or 5am getting this completed a task made all the more fun by Stacey's bizarre ability to stab herself with any pin post about 3am to which the sewing hours after that became known as stab o'clock.
I won't break this one down as I did the last ones because as I have already mentioned I didn't sew a lot of it. From what I can tell the Wash Over skirt sews together well looks great and is easy to deal with in terms of cleaning and storing. The whole skirt flattens out for ironing and cleaning. what I will focus on is the bodice.
We changed up the sleeves (to make it easier at stab o'clock) and changed the neckline quite substantially. I was especially proud of having lined up the chevron despite the resizing stress. I assume it would have sewn together much better if the proper instructions were followed from the start. Lucky I had some practice with the whole resize thing on my own bodice so it wasn't completely foreign though I would still only rate myself novice at best.
Anyway there is now only one Victorian to go but alas I will need to get a better picture as the one I have is only from behind.
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